Not to miss spot in Kathmandu

Travelling has always been a way of self-discovery. Same places can be appear different, give different vibes and make you see the world differently. One of such places has been Pashupatinath, a UNESCO heritage site in the northeastern Kathmandu. During my regular visits, I perceived Pashupatinath only as a Hindu temple complex that the holiest Shiva pilgrimage in Nepal. It has cremation grounds and you see human bodies turn into ashes, you see how the sufferings of people show up when they bid farewell to their loved ones, and it makes you really realize the impermanence of body. However, the last couple of times, I visited Pashupati, I saw a whole it in a whole new light. It actually changed how I saw the Kathmandu valley.

If you keep walking upstream from Aryaghat, the Bagmati river banks, after 200 meters or so, you will come across series of small few caves, recently fitted with doors. The first few are being used by babas, the Hindu ascetics. I didn’t know there was any place of Pashupati I hadn’t visited, until I got here. And the vibes of the place left me enchanted and I got more curious about the area.

Standing next to the cliff, I could see the Bagmati river sparkling with the reflections of warm orange lights. The forest on the other side gave a fresh ambience. I could see the arati (light offering) ceremony, which happens every evening, at a distance. Inside one of the caves, there was an aghora baba, who belonged to Shaivite tradition. Right next to this cave, there were caves where Naropa and Tilopa meditated around 11th century and a few small stupas scattered outside the cave. Tilopa and Naropa are two of the 84 maha siddhas, the realized adepts. Tilopa is Naropa’s teacher and Naropa was the abbot at Nalanda University. From them starts one of the Tibetan Buddhist schools of Kagyud, which has famous saints like Marpa, Milarepa and the reincarnates of Karmapa. There are 17 caves in that cliff which has been abode of Hindu and Buddhist sages since past 2000 years. One of the siddha’s who meditated there is Surata Vajra from 16th Century, native to Kathmandu valley. This led me to research and find out the rich Buddhist heritage of Kathmandu valley as well as the importance of valley as a pilgrim place. I discovered all this before turning to Buddhism. More I researched about that place, more I learnt about incredible Buddhist history of Kathmandu. Apparently, Padmasambhava, who took Buddhist teachings to Tibet, had attained enlightenment at a cave near Kathmandu at Pharping.

Pashupatinath is one place, I would say must be on your travel destination, not only because it is a UNESCO heritage site, but because this place truly is special for its spiritual energy and history it beholds.